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How Much Will Mobile Home Skirting Cost?
#1
If you are doing a repair, you can expect that the expense could range from a few dollars to hundreds depending on the nature of the repair. For full replacements, the lowest cost vinyl will start around $300 and the finest faux panel kits can grow into the thousands. The larger your mobile home, the larger the bill will be for materials and labor.
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#2
In my opinion masonary skirting is the only skirting that lasts and looks good fo long periods of time. the vinyl skirting will crack and weedeaters constantly knock holes in it. Any skirting that uses any wood is a no no in my opinion as it attracts insects. They have a plastic type skirting that looks like real brick and it is heavy, but for the expense it's worth it to spend a little more and brick or block it. I just had mine done and installed foundation vents and access doors.
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#3
(06-14-2019, 06:47 AM)oxidanttop Wrote:  In my opinion masonary skirting is the only skirting that lasts and looks good fo long periods of time. the vinyl skirting will crack and weedeaters constantly knock holes in it. Any skirting that uses any wood is a no no in my opinion as it attracts insects. They have a plastic type skirting that looks like real brick and it is heavy, but for the expense it's worth it to spend a little more and brick or block it. I just had mine done and installed foundation vents and access doors.



If you check the requirements for a gov't mortgage on a mobile home they will show you all of the best ways things should be done. Mobile home installers will usually try and do things the cheapest and easiest way. The steel beams are the support structure of a mobile home.
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#4
Anything around the perimeter is just trim with no real support. Even if you see one on a basement there must be piers under the steel for support. If there is any doubts on this I can take you to a house that they installed incorrectly on a basement. The whole house collapsed into the basement, it's not a pretty sight, and I don't think they lived there long if at all. On dry ground the best way to support the house is to pour footers in line where the support beams are then stack your block under the beams. Many codes just allow stacked block on virgin soil but it's better with footers.
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#5
(06-14-2019, 06:49 AM)fondue Wrote:  Anything around the perimeter is just trim with no real support. Even if you see one on a basement there must be piers under the steel for support. If there is any doubts on this I can take you to a house that they installed incorrectly on a basement. The whole house collapsed into the basement, it's not a pretty sight, and I don't think they lived there long if at all. On dry ground the best way to support the house is to pour footers in line where the support beams are then stack your block under the beams. Many codes just allow stacked block on virgin soil but it's better with footers.



All post-Andrew (the hurricane) mobiles are built to withstand very strong winds, and the tiedowns will go into the walls and onto the roof as well. If you have any doubts, call the local mobile place --- if it's rural enough, they probably installed the mobile. :haha:
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